Materials
Cedar — #1 grade
Cedar is the dominant material in everything we build, and we use #1 grade — the highest commercial grade — which means tighter grain, fewer and smaller knots, and longer clear runs than #2. #2 grade is what most national fence companies push because it's $0.50–$1.00 cheaper per picket, but the visual quality difference is significant. We don't compromise on grade.
Our cedar comes from a mill relationship we've maintained for years. We inspect every delivery for moisture content, end-check, and grain figure. Boards that don't pass go back.
White wood pine
Our budget fence option is white wood pine, not pressure-treated pine. It takes stain cleanly and costs meaningfully less than cedar, with a 12–15 year life in DFW instead of 20+. New pine is delivered wet from the lumberyard — we let it dry 4–6 weeks before staining to avoid trapping moisture and peeling the finish. The budget picket does not mean a budget frame: white wood pine fences go up on the same 13-gauge heavy-duty steel posts as our cedar builds.
Pressure-treated lumber still has its place in the build — we use a 2x6 treated pine kick board on the bottom of the fence, and treated framing on decks — but it isn't what we put up as a picket.
Composite decking
On decks where the client wants zero maintenance, we install Trex Transcend or TimberTech AZEK only. We don't install house-brand composites from the big-box stores — they have higher failure rates in DFW heat and shorter manufacturer warranties.
Hardware
Hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel on every connection. Hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails on pickets — screws split new lumber, and pickets need to flex as boards expand and contract seasonally. Screws are the right fastener for repair work on a fence a year old or older, once the wood has dried out. Stainless or trim-head screws on decking. Black hardware on gates. Blum soft-close concealed Euro hinges on custom cabinetry. We don't use brad nailers on structural connections.
Post depth and concrete
The single biggest determinant of long-term fence life is post depth and concrete quality. DFW clay shifts seasonally with moisture content — shallow posts heave and lean within 4 years. Our standard:
- 30-inch post depth for 6-foot fences (below frost line + below seasonal shift zone)
- 36-inch post depth for 8-foot fences (more leverage at the top, more depth needed)
- Bagged Maximizer high-compression concrete — not quick-set — hand mixed in a wheelbarrow before we pour it into the holes
- Crown the top of the concrete so water sheds away from the post
- 13-gauge heavy-duty galvanized steel posts — not wood 4x4s, which rot at the concrete line
We don't shortcut posts. No "every other post in concrete" tricks, no above-ground metal post anchors on residential builds, no aluminum spike-in posts.
Frame and rail
- 6-foot cedar fence: three 2x4 cedar rails, posts set on 8-foot or tighter center points.
- 8-foot cedar fence: four 2x4 cedar rails, posts set on 6-foot or tighter center points.
Rails screwed (not nailed) to posts so they can be tightened over time. Joist hangers used on all deck framing — never just toe-nailed.
Gates
Every gate is custom built to fit its opening — most of ours land between 40 and 42 inches wide — and braced properly so it doesn't sag. We don't use welded steel gate frames. Three hinges per gate (not two), a heavy-duty latch system, and black hardware throughout. Drop-rod for double gates, magnetic latches on pool-code gates.
Stain and finish
Semi-transparent oil-based stain by default — the color soaks into the wood instead of sitting on top and peeling. Huemiller is our primary product line: an oil-based semi-transparent stain in the brown family, with colors like Classic Cedar Tone, Walnut, and Natural. We also apply Ready Seal, or whatever brand your HOA specifies if they require one. Two coats on south- and west-facing fences (more UV exposure). Re-stain every 2–3 years for the best color retention. We also offer solid stain — an acrylic-based product that covers all imperfections and is rated to last longer. It does hide the wood grain and the knots, so we use it where uniformity matters most: multiple shared fences already stained different colors, pulled into one color.
Chain link
We do install chain link — just not very often. Most of our work is cedar and wood, but if chain link is the right answer for your property (a back run, a dog area, a budget line that has to hold), we'll build it. Ask us when we come out to measure.
Subcontractors
On larger jobs and through the busy seasons we do bring in subcontractors. Here's the rule that doesn't bend: every subcontractor works directly with Josh for a minimum of four completed projects before they run anything on their own. They learn Josh's standards on Josh's jobs first.
And it doesn't stop there. Even after a sub has earned their own jobs, Josh or a project manager checks in daily on every job site. Nobody builds a Woodchuck fence unsupervised.
What we don't do
- Bid wars against handyman pricing — we're a single-crew shop and our cost reflects that
- Install over an existing problem (rotted ledger board, hidden water damage, unstable footing) without fixing it first
- Use #2 grade cedar, "cedar-tone" pressure-treated, or aluminum post-spikes
- Shortcut the permit because "the city won't notice"
What this means for you
A Woodchuck Millwork fence costs more than the cheapest quote you'll get. The difference shows up over 20 years: tighter post lines, less leaning, less rot, fewer repair calls, longer time between stain re-coats. We're building for someone who wants the work done right, not the fastest or the cheapest.
Ready to talk? See our fence installation service or get a quote.